Travel Edition: Sierra Nevada Mountains with the Kogi and Wiwa Tribes of Tairona

“Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished,” Lao Tzu

Sometimes we need to unplug and slow down. Spending time in nature helps us understand that we are part of much larger, and complex systems.

I was lucky to be able to spend a few weeks hiking with my brother and friends throughout the Sierra Nevada Mountains with the Kogi and Wiwa Tribes of Tairona.

The Buritaca River

Several years ago, my brother sent me the video Aluna, where they talk about the critical interconnections within the natural world. That these interconnections are often a subtle and hidden network, and interfering in one part has a major impact on other specific parts (think butterfly effect of sorts). It goes even further and shows the importance on drawing on indigenous understanding of environmental impacts, and collaborating with indigenous expertise in environmental impact assessments.

Unbeknownst to me, I would be honored to get the time to be here, among the Kogi Tribes.

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, is one of the world’s highest coastal mountain ranges.

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is one of the most biologically diverse mountain ranges in the world. Among the vast array of plants and animals. For instance, there are over 600 species of birds (many of which are not found anywhere else on the planet).

These mountains are a true microcosm of our planet, with every climate, ecological zone and most of the broad families of plants and animals represented.

Diaethria phlogea, the 89'98 butterfly

In addition, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is home to an estimated 60,000 Indigenous people.

Gabo, the most incredible guide and friend!

The Kogi are an indigenous ethnic group that live in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains in northern Colombia. They are the last surviving civilization from the world of the Tairona, and their cities in the mountains are mostly untouched.

Kogi children of Tairona

The Kogi live in a series of villages, called Kuibolos, containing circular huts made of stone, mud, and palm leaves.

Ciudad Perdida predates Machu Picchu by several hundred years.

Forgotten for about 400 years before its rediscovery in the 1970s, Ciudad Perdida is stunning in scale and complexity. Some areas date to the seventh century, with terraces, plazas, canals, stone paths and staircases, which are incredibly preserved.

Ciudad Perdida

Ongoing archaeological research has identified structures buried many feet below the visible terraces.

At its peak, about 2,500 people may have lived here according to archeologist.

The Mamos Hut at Ciudad Perdida

The Mamos (which means sun in Kogi) are regarded as tribal priests who hold highly respected roles in Kogi society.

The role of the Mamos is to mediate between the physical world and “Aluna” to ensure that dangerous and destructive forces are held in check.

Trail dogs guiding the way!

Traveling teaches you many things, specifically how interconnected the world is and to slow down and appreciate life.

A friendly Cotton-Top Tamarin

Resources:

Aluna the movie

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Q&A with Megan